Horticultural Planning Records Est. data · NOAA 1991–2020 · USDA 2023

Compost Ratio Calculator

Get your compost pile in the working range.

Add your greens and browns, see where your pile's carbon-to-nitrogen ratio sits — and what to add if it's off.

What's in your pile

Greensnitrogen-rich0
Add a green
Brownscarbon-rich0
Add a brown

Your pile's balance

Add at least one green and one brown to see your pile's carbon-to-nitrogen balance.

Why The Ratio Matters

Composting is microbial work, and the microbes doing it have a diet. They need carbon for energy and nitrogen to build the proteins they reproduce with, in a mass ratio of roughly 25 to 30 parts carbon for every one part nitrogen. Hit that band and the population explodes — the pile heats, steams, and breaks down quickly. Carbon comes from the dry, brown materials: leaves, straw, paper, wood. Nitrogen comes from the moist, green ones: grass, kitchen scraps, manure.

Stray too far either way and the system stalls. Too much carbon and the microbes are starved of nitrogen — they can't multiply, so the pile sits cool and unchanged for months. Too much nitrogen and they outrun the oxygen supply; the pile goes anaerobic, turns slimy, and gives off that unmistakable ammonia reek. The ratio isn't a recipe preference, it's a chemistry constraint on the organisms doing the work.

Reading Your Pile

Your pile will tell you what's wrong if you know what to look for. A healthy, well-balanced pile climbs to 130–150°F within five to ten days of building — warm enough to feel through a glove and steam on a cool morning. If it never heats, it's usually too carbon-heavy, too dry, or simply too small to hold its own warmth (aim for at least a cubic yard). If it turns slimy or smells of ammonia, it's nitrogen-heavy and likely short on air.

Fix one variable at a time so you can tell what worked. Turning the pile adds oxygen and is the first move against an anaerobic, smelly pile — a separate lever from the green/brown balance, but related, because a soggy nitrogen-rich pile is exactly the kind that goes airless. Adjust the ratio with this tool, turn for oxygen, and check the moisture: a working pile feels like a wrung-out sponge.

How We Calculate

This tool is honest about being an approximation. It uses widely-cited C:N ratios from extension publications and estimates each material's mass from a typical bulk density, then sums the carbon and nitrogen across the whole pile to get a mass-weighted ratio — which is why a small volume of a dense, nitrogen-rich material can outweigh a large volume of fluffy browns. Real piles vary with moisture content, how mature the material is, and the exact species, none of which the tool measures. Use it to tell "way off" from "in the range," not to chase a precise number.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the ideal C:N ratio for compost?

The working range is roughly 25:1 to 30:1 — 25 to 30 parts carbon to one part nitrogen, by mass. That's the band where the microbes doing the decomposing have both the energy (carbon) and the protein (nitrogen) they need to multiply fast, heat the pile, and break material down in weeks rather than months. A bit outside that range still composts; well outside it stalls or turns foul.

Is my pile too 'hot' or too 'cold'?

Symptoms map to the ratio. A slimy pile, or one that smells of ammonia, almost always has too much nitrogen — too many greens and not enough carbon to soak it up, often made worse by a lack of air. A pile that just sits there, dry and unchanged, and never warms up usually has too much carbon (too many browns), or it's too dry or too small to insulate itself. A balanced pile heats to 130–150°F within five to ten days and has an earthy, not offensive, smell.

How accurate are these numbers?

Directional, not lab-grade. The tool uses widely-cited C:N values from extension publications and estimates each material's mass from a typical bulk density. Real piles vary with moisture, how mature the material is, and the exact species — so treat the result as 'way off' versus 'in the range' rather than a precise figure. Home composting is forgiving; you're aiming for the right neighborhood, not a decimal place.

What about 'browns that act like greens'?

A few materials are genuinely ambiguous. Fresh hay and fresh manure still carry a lot of nitrogen and behave like greens, while the same materials aged or dried behave like browns. Kitchen scraps heavy with woody stems sit somewhere between. The green/brown label in this tool reflects each material's dominant, typical state — if yours is unusually fresh or unusually dry, nudge your expectations accordingly.